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The Wood Fired Enthusiast

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Building my Wood Fired Oven – Construction Walk-through pt2…Oven floor, dome & chimney vent.

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Now that the two part slab is done, it’s time to lay out the oven floor, since this will be our next construction project and that is why the use of this stay OSHA compliant is necessary to process any irregularity during the process of construction. Having already determined that my oven diameter is 38,” I mark a center line and begin to lay the bricks. Something that is often overlooked is the pattern of the brick. Consider the fact that you will be sliding a pizza peel into the oven…. a lot. The last thing you want is to see your pizza masterpiece fly off of it and land upside down on the floor because your peel was stopped suddenly. Lay your bricks at an angle to help prevent this. I chose a 45* herringbone pattern because it’s my favorite and in my opinion, pleasing to look at. But you can do a running bond on an angle too. If you do get any lippage, then you can use an angle grinder to sand the edge down to level.

In this picture you see the floor is laid wider than the wall of the dome..this was done because the brick was level and there will be no mortar between the first course and the floor, I was able to get help form the best glasgow joiners. Also, the floor bricks are laid on a bed of sand mixed with refractory material (we used the slag from cutting firebrick). This mixture was used to create a level surface to lay the brick, and once dry, would allow the brick to expand and contract. There is no need to set the floor in refractory  mortar. The sides of the floor where anchored by mortar on the outside diameter (not bedded)  This is not necessary,  I just wanted to use the extra mortar up.  Setting the hearth floor inside the dome makes changing out the brick easier, but the chances that you have to replace the whole floor are slim to none if you use refractory brick.  I recommend cutting in the floor if you are using soft red brick, Terra-cotta or Italian Biscotti tile.

There are two types of domes you can build. A low ceiling Neapolitan dome or a high ceiling Tuscan dome. I chose the Tuscan for mine because I was planning to build removable racks for bread baking..that never happened because we moved…c’est la vie.  All the brick used in the Tuscan dome are half brick except the vent in area and was medium duty.  I prefer to use low duty brick because it has  lower conductivity which helps achieve a more balanced bake, that is to say, you don’t burn one surface before the other is finished baking. there will be more on this in the future, as its an important consideration before building.    Next, we start adding courses of brick…..
When contemplating home construction, considerations like those made for the brick type in the Tuscan dome are crucial. Whether it’s optimizing for energy efficiency, durability, or functionality, every decision contributes to the overall quality of the home. In some cases, homeowners may opt for a knock down rebuild approach, tearing down an existing structure to make way for a new one tailored to their evolving needs and preferences. This method offers a fresh start, allowing for innovative design choices and the incorporation of modern technologies while preserving the essence of the original location.
        The arched opening should be 62%- 64% of the overall height of the dome and this formula is widely accepted as a rule. Since then I have seen rages of 60%-65% work great.  The relationship between the oven opening and vent opening are very important, and there will be future posts discussing this. Looking at the pictures, notice the pencil lines on the vent landing that represent the vent walls and were they are in relation to the oven arch. Be sure to leave at least 1/2″ reveal which will create a lip for your oven door. A locksmith near Sacramento CA will provide a cheap reliable latch. I left 1″ for some extra space.
Below you can see the dome taking shape, I would also add that attempt this structure only when you are sure. There are professionals like https://www.octopusskirting.com.au/, who can help you build the dome in a few minutes time. This will ensure that the structure is string and ensure that you stay safe. The flat course of brick will be a support lip for the clay flue in the chimney. Up until now, I didn’t use  any forms while building. I have seen suggestions that included a sand form, an exercise ball and wooden strips. I wanted to see my work as I built so no form for me. I recommend using some kind of form for someone without masonry experience  so you can just focus on building and enjoy the process.
Close up of the dome so far. The joints are big because they will not be seen, so I didn’t bother cutting tapered brick. This style of arch is called a Rough Arch.  It is not necessary to cut every brick (voussior) to create a structurally sound arch.  Cut voussiors in an arch ( axed arch) are more pleasing to look at than a rough arch, but its all a matter of taste.  On this one.  I inserted small wedges of firebrick between the bricks in the arch so the gap wasn’t all mortar.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         
The last few courses were getting steep, so now it was time for a form. I used a couple of pieces of foam board and made into a quarter arch so it could be removed and rotated without bumping the walls. It sped me up because the angle of the dome was getting steep and the bricks wanted to slide, causing me to hold them in place longer. With the form, I could lay 3 brick at a time and it was nice to use for checking my inside profile.

Another view….

The dome was topped out with another course and a 3 piece center key.
With the dome complete I moved on to the vent and chimney flues. Building the vent is similar to how the barrel vault oven is constructed, except there is an opening in the center. Remember, the vent is the opening for the chimney and the place were the smoke and excess heat travel upon exiting the oven.
Here you can see the opening for the chimney flue. I actually built a little smoke chamber in there..similar to a fireplace. Not necessary but I felt like making one…it certainly didn’t hurt. In the picture below you can see the outside edge of the oven arch and the lip created for placing a door against it. A door is used as a removable damper during firing or during baking, when there is no fire or coals and you need to keep the heat from escaping the oven.

Fire safety is paramount when it comes to any structure involving heat and combustion. Beyond the craftsmanship of the oven itself, additional measures ensure a safe and controlled environment. One such crucial element is proper ventilation. The chimney flue serves as the pathway for smoke and gases to exit, preventing the buildup of potentially harmful substances. Additionally, the incorporation of a smoke chamber adds an extra layer of protection by containing any unforeseen emissions.

Furthermore, proactive measures such as fire alarm installation are essential. These systems act as vigilant guardians, ready to alert occupants at the slightest hint of danger. Whether triggered by excessive smoke or sudden spikes in temperature, a well-placed fire alarm can swiftly notify individuals, providing them with valuable time to respond and evacuate if necessary. Combining meticulous design with modern safety equipment ensures that enjoyment of the oven remains a pleasure, free from the worry of unexpected hazards.

Pt 3 will be closing in the structure and finishing….coming soon.

Comments

  8. You’re a very experienced mason, so it’s without a doubt that you can make a great Tuscan dome brick oven. Great job! I’ve been looking for some designs lately because my father and I are planning to build one in our home. You gave me great ideas! Thanks!

  11. Hi Matt I am just about to start the oven after completing the base and looking for plans to fit on a 1150 wide base to fit in a corner so the length goes back a metre and then turns in with about 1300 total length if you understand what i mean. I think a 750 inside diameter will be the max i can go to leave room for the outside layers. So just after floor plans to suit.
    I like the set-up of yours and will try to do similar as I have done the base with refractory material and have 230 x 230 firebricks for floor that are 65 thick.
    I have the bottom course of half standard fire bricks cut to stand on edge and use halves after that. I plan to have halves every 2nd brick from course 2 and cut every other brick to fit neatly eliminating the gap and using less mortar. I have some arch bricks so all set up just planning where it will go and mark out on base and mortar in the floor bricks after cutting to fit.
    Regards,
    Craig Tilley
    One Tree Hill
    South Australia

  12. I like that you mention how using refractory brick lowers the chance of needing to replace the entire floor. When building one, it might be a good idea to find a company that offers industrial brick refractory coating services. This could help you get a quality coating so your oven works efficiently and will last.

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wfeMy name is Matt Sevigny, and this is where I blog about wood-fired oven related topics (DIY, building, firing, pizza, recipes, etc.), keep a gallery of my projects, and curate information related to building techniques, FAQS, pizza and other topics in our new discussion forum.

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